Not many of my friends know this beach because it sits at the edges of Salento, at least in the way people from Lecce think of it. In reality, Campomarino, many years ago was part of the Lecce province before being transferred to Taranto and it’s a typical salentine place.

Paradise Beach is on a stretch of the Ionian coast that has remained relatively untouched and unspoiled at least compared to the neighbouring Porto Cesareo.

Aside from the tipical beauty of the sea on this side of Salento, Paradise is one of the best beach resorts because of the very welcoming feel and the good crowd you find there, made of the  good youth of Taranto and their families, including some very yummy mummies. Many wealthy foreign tourists also tend to come back here every summer. The beach is vast and a bit isolated and if you walk its length on a less crowded day you may think you find yourself on a stretch of Brasilian beach.

The wooden veranda laid on more levels is perfect to taste the awesome dishes prepared by the chef Michele and if you are friend with the owner (I am), you can get the best table with ocean view. Bliss…

Since last year, Paradise Beach has become a full blown restaurant as well, also open in the evening. You can’t miss the pepata di cozze or the lobster tagliatelle, Michele’s specialty. Everything else, is also super tasty. Don’t drink too much wine or you’ll seriously think you arrived to paradise.

The staff is a great bunch of guys and girls, happy to help you out with anything you need but, during our last visit, Sinan and I fell in love with the shy Loredana (Lolla) and the explosive cuban Antia. What a girls!

And when you get there, make sure to say hi to Ester, the owner, who will welcome you with a big smile and a hug. Especially if you say you are my friend.

Another tasty photographic account by my friend Sinan’s trip to Salento.

From a distance, Arete looks like a private Tuscan villa with a big porch surrounded by linen curtains. 20 min. outside of Lecce, this restaurant is an institution of delicious appetizers and steak. From the warm bread served before dinner to the cheese served in between courses, everything here is worth trying. The warm chocolate croissants are a must for dessert.

Read here my experience at Arete’

A small corner of culinary heaven as seen by a new local, my friend Sinan, on his always awesome Sinanation blog.

Hotel La Roccia stands like a fortress on top of a bay that runs into the town of Castro. In the southern tip of Salento, approx. 1.5 hours away from Lecce, this town is a smaller version of the romantic Italy you are used to seeing in movies.

Secluded estates that reveal only their entrance gates line up around the rocky shoulders like a string of pearls. You take extra caution driving on a snake-like road built right next to a cliff that rolls into the Aegean Sea, but you still wish you had a convertible red Ferrari or a classic sports car to test your skills on such a memorable track.

Beyond its rough topography, Castro is built for peace and serenity.

I can’t say much about Hotel La Roccia, but I believe it could be an amazing hotel once given a good renovation and a modern vision. It has a great setup and a unique beach that comfortably stands on a narrow cliff running down to the crisp Aegean waters. The hotel’s seafood restaurant on the other hand has so much more to offer.

On a bright night where the moon dives into the Aegean, we take our seats outside at Ristorante La Roccia with Andrea. We wait impatiently for food, trying to avoid the undisturbed romantic scene that lacks the right partners.

Dinner starts with fantastic appetizers of muscles, tuna carpaccio and an octopus salad dressed up with celery and carrots.

The spaghetti with muscles and tomatoes here (prepared for two, modified a little by Andrea*) is simply the best I have ever eaten so far anywhere around the world. It is simple yet prepared just right to provide the best flavor out of all the ingredients that made up this unforgettable dish. Every bite gives a hint of an amazing olive oil, fresh tomato, parsley, muscle wrapped around pasta al dente. The main course, a sea bass oven-baked covered in salt, is equally impressive and prepared with the same vision. I demand that you save room for dessert and order the Panna Cotta and the warm apple cake served on top of a vanilla sauce.

I hope you make it to this place. I certainly want to go again.

* As standard, most restaurants will offer two versions of spaghetti with muscles: red or white (i.e. with or without tomato sauce); in reality, the best choice is neither. You should ask for bianca con qualche pomodorino spezzato (i.e. white with a few freshly chopped cherry tomatoes). This is how you’ll enjoy it better, this is how you’ll have it if you ever are at a table with me.

I knew about Casa dei Mercanti and I had seen their website before but a few days ago I made an interesting and pleasant discovery. I met Franzi, the manager of the House and he showed me around the place and let me have a look at the 9 rooms (I should say suites) he manages bed & breakfast style. Let’s just say that the website doesn’t convey the beauty, style, cleanliness and quality of the place. You can think of Casa dei Mercanti more like a hotel than a b&b where all details are taken care of and top notch technology combined with great service make you feel at home.

Having heard and read many positive reviews about it and after seeing the rooms, I can’t help but recommend it here on SalentoandOut.

Don’t be fooled by the less than attractive building entrance. Casa dei Mercanti offers a beautiful and ideal accommodation for anybody wanting to visit Lecce and Salento. It’s situated right in the middle of Lecce’s old centre, in Piazza Sant’Oronzo, just a gay stone throw to the magnificent roman anphitheatre and a very lazy 2 minute stroll to the wonderful Santa Croce Basilica.

I met Angela and Stella, two of the girls who, together with Franzi, take care of guests and provide you with a quality service. I was pleasantly surprised by their friendliness and smiles, clear sign of good service.

Franzi and his team are always available for you to give you advice on what to see and do in Lecce and Salento; where to go on the beach depending on the wind; they’ll give you a city centre pass for your car, a very sought after and useful benefit also for locals.

Franzi and I have agreed to give SalentoandOut readers a 10% discount on stays at Casa dei Mercanti [here you'll find their prices]. You can just present this voucher to them when you book your stay or tell them you found out about them on SalentoandOut.

I am sure you’ll enjoy your stay at Casa dei Mercanti a lot. We’d like to have your feedback here afterwards.
Piazza Sant’Oronzo, 44, Lecce; +39 0832 279819; casadeimercanti.it; mappa

My friend Julie, City Geisha by day and professional Ninja by night, recently came to Salento with her best friend Dion. The two ladies of leisure spent about a week down the heel of the Italian boot and went back home a few kilos heavier and with some stories to tell.

From Lecce to Gallipoli, from wineries to restaurants, from the hot beaches to the cheese making experience, here’s Julie’s photographic account of their adventure. For more interesting details, get in touch with her or ask me - I’ll spill the beans for a glass of wine or two…

A few days ago, after a long day driving around Salento with Julie, Dion and Orso, wine tasting and mozzarella making, we decided to go and have dinner to Arete’. Hostaria Arete’ is a beautiful restored farmhouse converted into an equally beautiful retaurant. Although in winter, it is very cosy and romantic dining in front of the big fireplace, I prefer it in summertime when the tables are set outside under the inspiring veranda.

But, let’s not beat around the bush, you go to Arete’ for the meat, lots of it and some more.

I had been to Arete’ a couple of weeks earlier as well and finally mastered the menu’ – the secret is actually not to order the best and biggest cut, the Fiorentina or the Chianina cut – they are too big and in my opinion they don’t cook well and get cold very quickly while you eat them. Try instead the Angus which is equally tasty but without the bone and it cooks perfectly on the lavic stone they serve it on on the table and stays well warm until you finish it (if you can finish it). But I am getting ahead of myself…

Let me give you a few tips to make sure you enjoy your meal at Arete’:

1 – Don’t go on weekends if you can. Arete’ is very popular and you risk that your meal will run forever. On weekdays, there will still be a lot of people and a nice atmosphere but the waiters won’t be running like headless chickens.

2 – As I was saying above, try the Angus to enjoy one of their signature dishes. They serve it only half cooked on the table on a lavic stone and there you continue the cooking yourself. Get them to slice it for you before they serve it on the table. You’ll probably want to share it as it’s a 500gr steak.

3 – Ask for the salt before the beef arrives. I go mad in many restaurants when you have to wait for the salt and it arrives after the main course (it seems to be trendy these days not to have salt on the table). At Arete’ they have a selection of different types of flavoured salts, black, pink and other types. Whatever, regular salt would do the trick.

4 – Here I discovered Il Lemos, a very interesting red wine from Leone de Castris, one of the main winemakers in the region. Il Lemos is typical only in part as it’s a blend of Negroamaro and Primitivo (the two main local grapes) but also contains Merlot and Montepulciano. I think it’s a very good wine.

5 – Don’t stuff yourself with the antipasti. Julie and Dion made this mistake as they were eager to try all of them and could not resist to the wonderful burrata, the meatballs, the baked courgettes, the aubergines, the pittule, and so on (who cuold blame them). Order less than one plate of antipasti for every two people, trust me. Or you won’t enjoy your meat afterwards.

As main course, Julie and Dion wanted to taste both the home made pasta with tomato sauce, mini-meat balls and cacio ricotta (fresh salty grated cheese) and the fillet. They loved the food but they were so stuffed in the end they could not walk properly or make much sense in general. It happens in the land of Salento when you let the food and wine flow.

6 – Make sure you are in good company. This is the main rule when it comes to enjoying your meal.

7 – Leave some space in your stomach for the mini-croissants filled with nutella. I think this was the final blow to my two poor friends. But I am sure they don’t regret trying them.

So, anyway, I think Hostaria Arete’ is a very solid performer in the Salento food scene. When you visit Salento, get someone to take you there and take it all in. I am sure you’ll thank me even if you’ll need someone to carry you home afterwards.

Strada Provinciale Cavallino-Caprarica (Lecce); +39 337 826761; hostariarete.it

Also see my friend Sinan’s photographic account of Arete’

As mentioned in my previous post, Sinan has published the second installment of his trip to Salento. This time, he takes on the beautiful beaches of the salentine coasts. While our daily quest was for beautiful tangas, we often came across some less inspiring characters.

I am sure you’ll all enjoy reading here.

 

Beautiful 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom villa with large kitchen and living / dining area; vast veranda with access to 800 sqm garden and big terrace on the first floor. Complete with all amenities, 2 fireplaces, utility room, etc.. Only a few minutes walk to the beautiful Porto Cesareo beach on the Ionian coast. Porto Cesareo is well known for its beautiful coast line and for its fish restaurants.

Villa Marta is perfect for a group of friends looking to enjoy the beautiful Salento sea and sun and a few barbecue sessions and many prosecco based aperitifs after a hard day swimming and sun-bathing.

Porto Cesareo is also conveniently located to explore the Ionian Coast. To the south you can reach the Porto Selvaggio natural park (WWF protected reserve) or the beautiful Gallipoli with its old town and sandy beaches; to the north, you can reach Punta Prosciutto or further up, Campomarino – this entire stretch of coast is made of beautiful beaches still surrounded by sand dunes and still unspoilt compared to the rest of the coast.

Villa Marta is currently available for rent from 28 August onwards.

For more information and bookings, contact Andrea@cityandout.com.

A couple of weeks ago, my dear friend Sinan came to Salento to visit and we enjoyed a week of sun, sea and wind (lu sule, lu mare e lu ientu in local dialect) as well as a lot of food, alcool and more.

Sinan is a talented blogger and he’s decided to tell all about Salento and his trip in a series of posts on his Sinanation blog. The first post, titled Mamma li Turchi* focuses on Lecce, the unofficial capital of Salento and one of the best towns you’ll ever visit. His take is, as usual, funny, sharp and accurate.

Enjoy reading here and watch out for the next installments.

* The expression Mamma li Turchi (Mother, the Turks!) dates back to 1480 when 18,000 Turks landed in Otranto and runsacked the town, killing thousands and enslaving the rest of the population. Particularly gruesome was the decapitation of 800 citizens who did not surrender until their death. The 800 were made martyrs and their bones and skulls are to this day stored and worshipped in the Otranto cathedral.

Of course, when you are in good company it’s easy to have a good time. But, if the place you are attending has good music, great crowd and the right atmosphere, then everything can be simply amazing. That was the case a few days ago, on a Saturday night at Kudeta’, in Gallipoli.

During the day Kudeta’ is a nice and cool beach resort in the Baia Verde of Gallipoli, but at night, in the right nights, it can become the place to be.

It was the first night in Salento of my friend Sinan and after a windy day on the beach and a meaty meal, we headed, well oiled and in good company to Kudeta’. The location is perfect. At one end the bar with unusually good, if crowded service.  At the other end, a cooling area for people who’ve been dancing all night and need a little break. In the middle the dancing area and the dj decks. Further down a dock perching on the water. This was our favorite spot as the night was warm and the place busy, but here the wind was blowing and keeping us refreshed and alert.

Awesome crowd and music, good mojitos – what else are you looking for? Well, Sinan, we know what you were looking for. It’s gonna have to be next time…

The best time to go to Kudeta’ is on Saturday nights.

My view is probably skewed as the owner and chef of this restaurant is my cousin. However, I can safely say that this is one of the best restaurants in Lecce. The service is casual in a cool way, and the atmosphere is always great and friendly. This is the favorite spot for many locals, it’s a place where people come knowing they’ll meet some of their friends and where they are going to have great food and a good time in a relaxing yet giovial environment.

I am not sure how to define the food. Michele, Michael for some, has created a menu that is based on fresh local and very high quality ingredients but has also added some phantasy and innovation and a mix of dishes from other regions or cultures. The choice is not huge but actually most people, me included, go there to taste over and over again their favorite dishes. Mine are the beef tagliata and the millefoglie with cream.

There are usually 5-6 pasta based first courses, with a different selection of vegetables and meat or fish, depending on the season. Similarly, the summer’s second course menu will be mainly based around fish, including local raw fish, but you’ll always find some good meat if you prefer some. The desserts are awesome.

One of the reasons you want to go there is also because of the wine cellar. Corte dei Pandolfi started as a wine tasting bar, hence the convoluted name, and although it evolved in a fully fledged restaurant it has maintained the love for wine and other liqueurs. So, you’ll find many local wines as well as a very broad selection of some really good bottles from all over Italy and beyond.

Michael is an entertaining character and very much loved by all his customers, many of which are foreigners, going back to visit him everytime they are in Lecce.

Michele is open only in the evenings and you may need a reservation at weekends or for bigger tables. If you visit Lecce or Salento, you simply can’t miss a dinner there. You’d regret it.

And I’ll probably be there with my steak or a glass of grappa.
Piazzetta Orsini; +39 0832 332309; cortedeipandolfi.com

Recently voted one of the best cooking schools in Italy by Food and Wine Magazine – the representative of Puglia at the prestigious La Dolce Vita in London – The Awaiting Table Cookery School in Lecce, Italy, is a small, intimate Italian cooking school in the most beautiful town in the entire sunny south of Italy.

Find out more here